As I have been knitting the different dishcloth patterns in my Summer Knitting project, it occurred to me that it might be a good idea to write a post in this blog about how to do some of the textured stitch patterns used in knitting the dishcloths. So, I am starting with the Bee Stitch.
The Bee Stitch is an easy textured stitch pattern and it produces an interesting textured fabric. It is a variation of the garter stitch and the edges do not roll. I think it would make a nice textured scarf or baby afghan. It certainly made a nice dishcloth.
The Bee Stitch is a multiple of 2 stitches plus 1 over 4 rows. It is made by “knitting 1 below (K1b)” and you need to have an odd number of stitches.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: (Right Side): *(K1, K1b); Repeat from * across to last stitch K1.
Row 3: Knit
Row 4: *(K1b, K1); repeat from * across to last stitch, K1b.
Repeat these 4 rows for desired length of fabric. This 4 row repeat creates a diagonal patterning.
To “Knit 1 Below” , you put the tip of your needle through the center of the stitch below the stitch on the needle and slip off both strands at the same time. Tip – make certain that you are going through the center of the stitch below and can see the two strands of yarn when pulling the yarn through the stitch.
Here is a link to a YouTube video demonstrating “Knit 1 Below”: Knitting Demo Video.
Note: New link as of 10.9.2016.
References:
Kitchen Bright Dishcloths, Leisure Arts
Knitting on the Net (www.knittingonthenet.com)
20 thoughts on “Stitch Patterns: The Bee Stitch and Knitting 1 Below”
Wow I like the texture that stitch seems to have. I’ll have to try it out sometime!
I will be there tonight with my shawl.
I couldn’t view the video, but I am not sure I understand. Does the K1b increase the # of stitches? Do you pull it up to knit with your regular stitch?
Thank you! This looks plush, and I’d like to try to work the stitch into boot cuffs.
Cheers, Avis
The K1b does not increase the number of stitches. When you “knit one below” you go into the stitch loop below the stitch on the needle and knit it like a regular knit stitch — you simply pull it off along with the stitch loop on the needle.
I knit a lot for newborns and was looking for a simple pattern with a chunky look…Thank you very much and do keep posting.
This deep texture, with lots of warmth-trapping air pockets, will be great for winter scarves!
k1b means knit one through back of stitch. I hope that makes sense.
I did some research on this — I only found one reference that stated that k1b may mean “knit 1 through the back loop”, but the reference also said that k1b may also mean “knit one below”. Three other references all gave k1b as “knit one below”.
“knit one through back of stitch” is often abbreviated as kb or kbtl.
In the case of the Bee Stitch pattern — k1b definitely means “knit one below” NOT “knit one through back of stitch”. Readers — please read the explanation of how to do the “knit one below” — if you knit through the back of the stitch and not below — your Bee Stitch will not be correct.
Doing a stitch now called honeycomb brioche it looks very similar
I cannot view the You Tube video
I also cannot access the video, Not sure how to make this pattern even though it looks very simple.
in this pattern, “k1b” means knit one below. In other patterns it may mean knit one through back of loop. Always read the abbreviation instructions to avoid confusion.
The way I understand this stitch is: When you come up through stitch below, you wrap yarn around the right-hand needle in back (like you normally do when knitting a stitch) and then go through the stitch on left-hand needle and take it off. Please correct me if I’m wrong…..
Thanks i would love to try this.
This was the best of all the explanations for the b-stitch that I have seen. Thank you–I have a pattern that I want to make which has row s2 and 4 doing a knit-pearl pattern and doing a b-stitch under a pearl is possible but much harder than thr knit stitch so I have been struggling with that. Now when i knit the rows between the knit under is a breeze. So I’m really happy to have found your help.
Thanks a bunch.
Doris Nixon
LOVE THS BEE STITCH BUT YOU SAY TO CLICK ON VIDEO ON HOW TO DO THERE IS NO VIDEO ON YOUR SITE NOTHING COMES UP
COULD YOU EMAIL ME
I like the name Bee Stitch. I’ve been doing this pattern for many years and called it, Honeycomb or Alternating Fisherman’s Rib in the U.K. If you don’t alternate the k1b, it is then Fisherman’s Rib.
Knitting through back loop is usually abbreviated as. K1tbl.
Thanks for letting me know. It appears that this video is no longer available on YouTube.
I love this stitch but what kind of projects can I make besides a square or rectangle?
I have finished my Plain Vanilla Socks knitted in Serenity Sock Yarn (Premier yarns), colorway Amethyst. This is the yarn that I wrote about in a previous post: “A Study of Pooling in a Variegated Sock Yarn”. As I discovered in my study of how this yarn pools, by using 54 stitches on size US 2 (2.75mm) needles, I got a “striping” effect as the yarn pooled. You can see the result in the picture above.
Serenity Sock Yarn is a variegated yarn with color changes that are fairly short and don’t necessarily produce stripes when the number of stitches increases. The yarn itself has a nice soft feel to it and it knits up nicely, but I did experience a tendency of the yarn to split at times. The yarn is 50% Merino Wool, 25% Bamboo and 25% Nylon and has sufficient stretch for a well-fitting pair of socks. Anyone planning on using this yarn should definitely knit a swatch with the number of stitches they are planning to use for their socks to see if it knits up in a way that they like.
There was a pattern printed on the inner label that called for a gauge of 9 spi on US 2 (2.75mm) needles. The pattern is based upon 64 stitches. Now, I got an spi of 6.25 on US 2 needles, which is a significant difference and I cannot speak to how it would pool at the stated gauge of 9 spi. I know that I knit more loosely and guess that in order to obtain 9 spi, I would have to use US 0 (2.25 mm) or US 00 (1.75 mm). I really prefer to knit socks on a little bigger needles. These socks were for me to wear around the house and they fit my feet perfectly.
As for the pattern used for these socks — I really didn’t use one. I knit a 3 X 1 ribbing for 1.5 inches, then switched to stockinette stitch and knit until the cuff measured 6.5 inches. I did a short row or mitered heel and then knit the foot and toe in stockinette and grafted the toe when I had 9 stitches remaining on each side of the sock. I used the Magic Loop method and knit the socks two at a time.
First, a definition: A Helpful Swatch is a swatch that gives you, the knitter, information that helps you in the planning, preparation and construction of your knitting project. It tells you a number of things that are essential for successful completion, among them:
Your stitch and row gauge with the yarn and needles you have selected for your project
The type of fabric produced with your yarn and your gauge.
What happens when the yarn is washed and dried.
What adjustments are needed to make a garment that fits the way you want it
How a given stitch pattern looks when knitted using your selected yarn.
In addition, you can use your swatch to test out different techniques such as decreases or increases that you might want to use during construction. Full disclosure here: You’ll need to knit more than one swatch to get a helpful swatch. This is why most experienced knitters will tell you that you should buy an extra skein of yarn just for swatching.
One of the first issues new knitters encounter when doing a swatch is not knitting a big enough swatch — they tend to cast on only enough to knit a 4 inch square. In most cases, this isn’t big enough to provide helpful information. So, how big does a swatch need to be? The short answer is: Big enough to get a good sense of how the project will knit up. Elizabeth Zimmerman wrote that “a hat is a good swatch” – which is true if you are planning to knit your sweater in the round. Some knitters use a sleeve as their swatch, others knit a swatch that is at least 6 inches wide by 6 inches high. I would say that the 6 X 6 swatch is a good starting point – but you made need to make one that is even wider.
GAUGE: Here’s one inescapable truth about yarn, needles, and gauge: “Your Mileage May Vary”. Meaning that gauge is a very personal thing – it’s yours and yours alone. It is a measurement of the fabric YOU produce when you knit. So doing a swatch to identify your gauge is important to your success.
Before you start your first swatch you need to decide what size needle works best for the project. Yarn labels usually have a recommended needle size and gauge listed. Some manufacturers state a range on the label, others use a symbol to indicate the recommended gauge. Either way, this is just the starting point. A pattern may also include information about the yarn, needles and gauge the designer used to create the pattern. Both sources provide you with a starting point for selecting the size needle you need to use to obtain the knitted fabric you want to make.
Gauge written on label
Symbol showing gauge
Here are the steps I follow to make a Gauge Swatch:
Select 3 sizes of needles – if the recommended needle size on the yarn label is a US 7, I use a US 6, US 7, and US 8 for this swatch.
Cast on enough stitches on the smallest needle size for a width of at least 6 inches. (To estimate the number of stitches to cast on, I use the recommended gauge on the yarn label. For example, the label states 20 stitches in 4 inches, that’s 5 stitches per inch, so I’d cast on 30 stitches for 6 inches.). Knit in stockinette stitch for at least 3-4 inches ending with a right side (knit) row.
Knit the wrong side row to indicate where the change in needle size occurs.
Change to the US 7 and knit in stockinette stitch for another 3-4 inches.
Repeat steps 3 & 4 with the US 8. Bind off loosely. (You can also just put the live stitches on waste yarn).
Take stitch and row gauge measurements for all needle sizes and make note of these before blocking per step 7.
Block this swatch using the care instructions on the yarn label.
Once the swatch is dry, take stitch and row gauge measurements for each needle size and write them down in your project notes. These are your “finished gauges”.
Select the needle size by looking at the fabric produced by each size needle. Which one gives you the best fabric? Do you like the stitch definition? Do you like the way it drapes and feels? Is one better than the other two? It’s your choice – but this helps you select the needle that works best with you and your choice of yarn.
Measuring the Swatch for Gauge:
Stitch gauge is expressed as “number of stitches in number of inches (or centimeters)”. You may see this as “20 sts/4 in (10cm) or 5 sts/in. To determine your stitch gauge you need to count the number of stitches in a horizontally measured row of stitches. This measurement should be taken using a ruler and marking the starting point and ending point away from the edges.
Row gauge is expressed as “number of rows in number of inches (or centimeters)”. You may see this as “28 rows/4 in( 10cm) or 7 rows/inch. To determine your row gauge you need to count the number of rows in a vertically measured column of stitches. Again, the measurement needs to be taken using a ruler and away from the top and bottom edges of the swatch.
Note that it is not necessary to measure just 4 inches horizontally or vertically. If you measure more than 4 inches, you may get a more accurate gauge because it will give you a better average – yes – gauge is actually the average number of stitches or rows per inch. And, math is required to determine gauge.
There are any number of YouTube videos available on measuring gauge swatches to determine stitch and row gauge. I recommend the following ones for more detailed explanation:
I knitted the heel and had about half of the gussets done on these socks when I decided that I did NOT like the way the picked up stitches for the gussets looked. They weren’t tight enough and appeared to have small holes along the picked up edge. Frustrating, VERY frustrating – especially since these socks must be knit to very high standards. I don’t know if the problem is the way I picked up the stitches – or if I pulled the yarn too tight. I have found that the Regia Stretch yarn used for these socks can be overstretched – it is a very stretchy yarn.
I put the socks in “time out” over the Christmas holidays – just too stressful to deal with them given all the other demands of the season. Last week, I pulled them out, put in lifelines at the instep and the end of the heel turn and then frogged them back to the point where I need to pick up the gusset stitches. 🙁
I plan to tackle the picking up of the gusset stitches this week, paying special attention to how the stitches form as they are picked up…and trying to avoid overstretching the yarn…I will let you know how it goes.
I knitted the heel and had about half of the gussets done on these socks when I decided that I did NOT like the way the picked up stitches for the gussets looked. They weren’t tight enough and appeared to have small holes along the picked up edge. Frustrating, VERY frustrating – especially since these socks must be knit to very high standards. I don’t know if the problem is the way I picked up the stitches – or if I pulled the yarn too tight. I have found that the Regia Stretch yarn used for these socks can be overstretched – it is a very stretchy yarn.
Wow I like the texture that stitch seems to have. I’ll have to try it out sometime!
I will be there tonight with my shawl.
I couldn’t view the video, but I am not sure I understand. Does the K1b increase the # of stitches? Do you pull it up to knit with your regular stitch?
Thank you! This looks plush, and I’d like to try to work the stitch into boot cuffs.
Cheers, Avis
The K1b does not increase the number of stitches. When you “knit one below” you go into the stitch loop below the stitch on the needle and knit it like a regular knit stitch — you simply pull it off along with the stitch loop on the needle.
I knit a lot for newborns and was looking for a simple pattern with a chunky look…Thank you very much and do keep posting.
This deep texture, with lots of warmth-trapping air pockets, will be great for winter scarves!
k1b means knit one through back of stitch. I hope that makes sense.
I did some research on this — I only found one reference that stated that k1b may mean “knit 1 through the back loop”, but the reference also said that k1b may also mean “knit one below”. Three other references all gave k1b as “knit one below”.
“knit one through back of stitch” is often abbreviated as kb or kbtl.
In the case of the Bee Stitch pattern — k1b definitely means “knit one below” NOT “knit one through back of stitch”. Readers — please read the explanation of how to do the “knit one below” — if you knit through the back of the stitch and not below — your Bee Stitch will not be correct.
Doing a stitch now called honeycomb brioche it looks very similar
I cannot view the You Tube video
I also cannot access the video, Not sure how to make this pattern even though it looks very simple.
in this pattern, “k1b” means knit one below. In other patterns it may mean knit one through back of loop. Always read the abbreviation instructions to avoid confusion.
The way I understand this stitch is: When you come up through stitch below, you wrap yarn around the right-hand needle in back (like you normally do when knitting a stitch) and then go through the stitch on left-hand needle and take it off. Please correct me if I’m wrong…..
Thanks i would love to try this.
This was the best of all the explanations for the b-stitch that I have seen. Thank you–I have a pattern that I want to make which has row s2 and 4 doing a knit-pearl pattern and doing a b-stitch under a pearl is possible but much harder than thr knit stitch so I have been struggling with that. Now when i knit the rows between the knit under is a breeze. So I’m really happy to have found your help.
Thanks a bunch.
Doris Nixon
LOVE THS BEE STITCH BUT YOU SAY TO CLICK ON VIDEO ON HOW TO DO THERE IS NO VIDEO ON YOUR SITE NOTHING COMES UP
COULD YOU EMAIL ME
I like the name Bee Stitch. I’ve been doing this pattern for many years and called it, Honeycomb or Alternating Fisherman’s Rib in the U.K. If you don’t alternate the k1b, it is then Fisherman’s Rib.
Knitting through back loop is usually abbreviated as. K1tbl.
Thanks for letting me know. It appears that this video is no longer available on YouTube.
I love this stitch but what kind of projects can I make besides a square or rectangle?
The video is available here