Lindy's Knits & Laces knitting,Knitting Techniques,Sweater Design,Yarn Part 1: Freeing Yourself from a Written Pattern or How to Use the Yarn of Your Choice

Part 1: Freeing Yourself from a Written Pattern or How to Use the Yarn of Your Choice

In my last post, I discussed the issues related to trying to substitute one yarn for another and suggested at the end of my post that if you want to use a yarn of a different weight & gauge than what the pattern calls for – you can design your own custom sweater using the pattern as a guide.
Today, I will focus on the first of two approaches for doing just that. WARNING – you must be prepared to take measurements, do a proper gauge swatch and get out your calculator. Yes, we will be doing some math…

Approach #1 – Use EZ’s Percentage System.

Elizabeth Zimmerman published her “unvented” percentage system for designing sweaters in the Knitting Workshop and gave us many examples of how to use it in her other books. EZ was always someone who dealt with knitting in a pragmatic fashion and basically cut through all the fluff and gave clear explanations of basic concepts. I encourage you to read all of her books – but if you want the complete explanation of her percentage system — Knitting Workshop is the source.

I am describing EZ’s Percentage System for two basic sweater designs – the yoke sweater and the Raglan sleeve sweater. Both are knitted in the round. You need to take some basic body measurements:

Width around the chest (Chest Measurement) [CM] The Chest Measurement is the “Key Measurement” (100%) and the starting point.
Body length to Underarm (Underarm Measurement)
Sleeve length to Underarm (Sleeve Length)
You must know your stitch gauge or Stitches per Inch [SPI]

The math follows:
CM X SPI = # stitches needed for the body of the sweater.

For a Yoke Sweater the basic percentages of the above are:
Body = 100%
Wrist = 20%
Upper Arm = 33%
Underarm = 8%
Circumference of Shoulders = 133%
Neck = 40%

For a Raglan-Sleeve Style Sweater the basic percentages are:
Body = 100%
Wrist = 20%
Upper Arm = 33%
Neck = 40%

To calculate – multiply the total number of body stitches by the percentage.

I think you get the idea. If you want to try using EZ’s percentage system, I recommend you either borrow EZ’s Knitting Workshop from your library or a friend or purchase it.

Here’s a link that will take you to Amazon.com: Knitting Workshop

I have also created an Excel Spreadsheet that will make the calculations for you. You can download it here: EPS_Calculator Spreadsheet.

Next post, I will outline another approach to sweater design.

Related Post

WIP: Colored Blocks VestWIP: Colored Blocks Vest

I am still working on the EZ Green Sweater. I have one sleeve finished and about two-thirds of the other one knit. Now usually when I am getting close to completing a project like this, I will work on it steady until I’m finished. But not so this time! I have temporarily set aside the green sweater because I simply fell in love with another pattern.

It’s the Bold Blox pattern in Issue 103 of the Knitter’s Magazine. There was just something that totally intrigued me about this vest. I am not usually someone who knits straight from the pattern in the book or magazine — but here I am, knitting way on this pattern. I did make some modifications to the colors, choosing a different combination that the original — but I did decide to use the yarn called for in the pattern.

This is another unusual choice for me — I almost always subsitute the yarn called for in the pattern with something similar but more likely to be in my stash or available locally. But this time: I took the plunge and splurged on Malabrigo Worsted in six colors. (Yep – 6.)

I finished the yoke of the vest last evening and am now starting on the body of the vest. This is knitting up quickly and boy, oh boy, do I like this yarn! It is simply scrumptious. Lovely feel, wonderful stitch definition — it has it all.

The second picture shows the front of the vest. The yoke and the first sleeve is complete. The sleeves are knit in 1 X 1 rib and form a cap-style sleeve.

The third picture is of the back. I love the color combinations! I am especially in love with the raspberry pink colorway (Geranio). {I would knit something in just this color if I found the right pattern.} But I also am very pleased with how the different colored blocks in the yoke knitted up.

Details:
Pattern: Bold Blox — available on Ravelry. See link below.
Yarn: Malabrigo Worsted – Colorways: Geranio, Cypress, Pink Frost, Pearl Ten, Emerald and Red Mahogany.
Needles: US 7 (4.5 mm) and US 8 (5.0 mm)
Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches.

Links:
Bold Blox Pattern on Ravelry
My Project in Ravelry

WIP: Clapotis Scarf in Jaggerspun ZephyrWIP: Clapotis Scarf in Jaggerspun Zephyr

I have started another project even though I have at least two others on needles. I just got the itch to knit the Clapotis Scarf pattern along with some of the other members of my knitting guild. It took me a bit of time to decide to join the knit-along, because I wanted to use yarn from my stash rather than buy yarn for this project. I finally settled on the Jaggerspun Zephyr lace weight yarn I had left over from a lace scarf I knit for my DD a couple of years ago. This yarn is 50% fine grade merino wool and 50% Chinese Tussah silk in 2/18 Lace Weight. The colorway is Teal. I am using size US 4 (3.5 mm) needles.

This scarf is knit by starting at one point of a parallelogram and increasing stitches until you reach the desired width of the scarf. Then you knit a series of straight row sections until you have your desired length and then you decrease stitches until you reach the far corner of the scarf. Along the way, you drop stitches to create an open pattern between rows of stockinette stitches.
So far, I have knitted the increase section to the point where I will begin the straight rows and start dropping stitches. Here’s a picture:

The Clapotis pattern is free on Knitty.com. Here’s a link to the pattern: Clapotis Pattern

Knit 1 Below and the Bee Stitch — New VideoKnit 1 Below and the Bee Stitch — New Video

I have uploaded a new video to my YouTube Channel. I made a post about Bee Stitch several years ago and it is one of my most viewed posts. Since it seems to be a subject that knitters search for, I have created a short video demonstration on how to do the “knit 1 below” technique and knit the Bee Stitch Pattern.

I have a written pattern available on the Bee Stitch in my Stitch Library as well. This pattern makes a lovely, fluffy scarf and works well for a hat when knit in the round. My “Bee Stitch Beret” pattern is available for download here or in my Ravelry designs: Beret in Bee Stitch.

Happy Knitting!

#knittingwithLinda_omaha @knittingwithlinda_omaha #beestitch #knit1below