Returning to Blog and FO: Clapotis Shawl

October 13, 2012| LindyBeir| 0 Comment | 3:39 pm

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I have been away from blogging for about five months. There were a number of reasons for this. First, I just got busy with other things and didn’t seem to be able to find time to sit down and write any posts. And then, my knitting projects just didn’t seem to be getting finished — even though I was knitting. And then, my husband started on our remodeling project — which was/is my office. The remodeling will be worth it when it is done — but when it will be done doesn’t seem to be anytime soon. I now have my computer set up in the spare bedroom and I have retrieved a few skeins of yarn and patterns from the boxes I packed up several weeks ago — so I can knit. But heaven help me if I need to find any of my knitting books or any of my yarn stash! It’s all in boxes and plastic containers, stacked three deep and nearly to the ceiling in the garage. (So any future knitting projects are an excuse to go yarn shopping…) I’ll update you on the remodeling progress — here’s to hoping it’s done by the time I need to decorate for the Christmas holiday.

I do have a finished object! I have finished my Clapotis shawl.

I haven’t blocked it yet. Blocking will have to wait until I have free floor space again (remodeling). Here are the details:

Pattern: Clapotis – free on Knitty.com
Yarn: Jaggerspun Zephyr (50% wool, 50% silk) Colorway: Teal Needles: U.S. 4 (3.5 mm)
Since this is a laceweight yarn, I knit 18 repeats of the straight rows to get the length I wanted.
Unblocked the shawl measures 17 inches wide by 62 inches long. It will be wider and longer after blocking.

It’s a lovely, soft shawl and I am very happy with the way it turned out. I liked the finished shawl so much, I cast-on another using Knit Picks Gloss from my stash. More about this WIP another time.

Knitting Needle Sizes & ConfusionKnitting Needle Sizes & Confusion

Knitting Needles sizes are fairly straightforward in the sizes that one uses for DK, worsted weight and bulky yarns. (Size US 4 and up). But it is a much different story when it comes to small diameter needles used to knit fingering, lace and other finer weight yarns. This can be very confusing – I just discovered that there is a significant variation in the sizing labels for some of these needles.

Let’s start with the standard “US” sizing – which uses a numerical designation for knitting needles, from “0000” up to 35 – with the needle diameter increasing as the numerical designation increases. Seems like a fairly straightforward system – until you run across US size 1 & 2 needles that are different diameters. If you never use a knitting needle smaller than US size 4 (which has a diameter of 3.5 mm), this will not be a problem for you. IF, however, you get into knitting socks and lace using much smaller diameter needles – it may cause you to pull out your hair.

Fortunately, most knitting needles sold today also come with their diameter size stated as well as their US size. What I have currently in my assortment of circular knitting needles are as follows: US Size 0 (2.00 mm); US Size 1 (2.25 mm), US Size 1 (2.50 mm), US Size 2 (2.75 mm), US Size 2 (3.00 mm). These needles have all been purchased in the last 10 years. I have seen patterns referencing size 1.5 needles, so I am guessing that the size 2 (2.75 mm) needle may also be a 1.5, but it’s difficult to tell for certain. Just a word of caution to those using patterns calling for these US sizes of needles – make certain your metric diameter matches the pattern (if it’s stated) and BE SURE to check your gauge!

I found two websites that have charts comparing the US sizing to the metric diameter:
http://www.fibergypsy.com/common/needles.shtml
http://www.lionbrand.com/cgi-bin/faq-search.cgi?store=/stores/eyarn&faqKey=97

Point to remember: Gauge is the measurement of the number of stitches per inch you get with a particular needle – this is more important than using the size of needle stated in a pattern. Always do a swatch for gauge!

Summer Knitting: Dishcloths # 4 – 6Summer Knitting: Dishcloths # 4 – 6

I am now half way through my Summer Knitting project of knitting a dozen dishcloths. Here are the three I have just finished:

Dishcloth #4 – Crocus Buds

Pattern from the Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton, color Banana. This was an interesting openwork pattern. The “crocus buds” are created by pulling a stitch over the next two stitches on the needle. It is a simple 6 stitch pattern over 4 rows with yarn overs creating the open patterning between the “crocus buds”.

Dishcloth #5 – Elfin Lace

Pattern from Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton, color Natural. Easy lace pattern, that knits up into a nice dishcloth. The Elfin Lace pattern is an eight stitch pattern done over 8 rows.

Dishcloth #6 – Trinity Stitch

Pattern from Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton, color Natural. Lovely textured pattern produced by using the “Trinity Stitch”. I loved knitting this one. The “Trinity Stitch” is a neat textured pattern.

Link to “Kitchen Bright Dishcloths” from Leisure Arts (2004).

Stitch Patterns – Garter Stitch, Stockinette Stitch & Reverse Stockinette StitchStitch Patterns – Garter Stitch, Stockinette Stitch & Reverse Stockinette Stitch

I have decided to blog about various stitch patterns from time to time. So I am starting with the time honored basics: the garter stitch, the stockinette stitch and the reverse stockinette stitch.

This discussion assumes you know how to do a knit stitch and a purl stitch. If you are new to knitting and are not familiar with these two stitches, click on this link: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knit-stitch.

Garter Stitch: this stitch pattern is made by knitting every row, turning your knitting at the end of each row. (You would get the same effect if you purled every row – but most knitters prefer to knit every row). If you want to knit garter stitch “in the round”, you would knit one row and then purl one row – so most patterns using garter stitch are for flat pieces rather than circular knit pieces. The pattern produces a knitted fabric with ridges on each side that is essentially reversible – it looks very much the same on the right side as the wrong side. It takes two rows to make 1 ridge. The garter stitch is great for borders because it will not curl and lays flat once knitted. Many afghan and baby blanket patterns have a garter stitch border and it is often used as the basis for wash clothes and placemats.

Stockinette Stitch: this stitch pattern is the most commonly used knitted fabric. This stitch pattern produces a fabric with flat “V” shaped stitches on the right side and bumpy stitches on the wrong side. It is also known as flat knitting, tricot or jersey knit. Stockinette stitch consists of knitting one row, turning your work and purling one row if you are knitting a flat piece. If you are knitting in the round, you knit every row. Stockinette stitch fabric curls on the edges and at the top and bottom – it makes a good fabric for the body of a garment, but usually requires another stitch pattern for edging and or borders. It also stretches lengthwise when worn.

Reverse Stockinette Stitch: this is exactly what it sounds like – it is simply stockinette stitch fabric used with the purl side as the right side. It has all the properties of the stockinette stitch, but in addition, it will also stretch widthwise. You can see how the 3 stitches differ in the picture below:

If you look at the pictures of my teddy bear baby blanket – you will see how the teddy bear is formed by using the stockinette and reverse stockinette stitches together to form the pattern. This is a good example of how they can be combined to form textured patterning. Aran knitting patterns often combine stockinette, reverse stockinette and garter stitches as part of the textural patterning. Again, here are examples where the stitching is actually very straightforward and easy – but produces a fabric that looks complex because of the wonderful textures.

Note: For information on tension issues occurring with garter stitch, stockinette and reverse stockinette stitch, see my post on Master Knitter Level I — Swatches #1, 2 & 3.