How to Knit a Helpful Swatch – Part 4 Swatching to Estimate Yardage Needed

August 24, 2020| LindyBeir| 0 Comment | 8:00 am

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I have covered the basics of how to make a Gauge Swatch and calculate your stitch and row gauge in my previous three posts. Today’s topic will cover some basic math to help you estimate the yardage that you need using your yarn, your needles, and your gauge to make a sweater.

Let’s say you want to make a sweater using yarn from your stash and you need to know if you have enough to make it. To make this estimate, you need the measurements for the sweater you want to make. If you are using a pattern, the finished measurements should be stated within the pattern – ideally on a schematic. Some patterns may only state the desired measurements within the text of the pattern and you may have to read through to find them. If you are making the sweater without using a pattern – you would use the measurements of the individual who will be wearing the sweater.

The image below shows a schematic for the back of a sweater of a drop sleeve sweater. The back is 28 inches long from the hem to the neck and it is 20 inches wide. Both the front and the back of this type of sweater are essentially rectangles.

The schematic for the sleeves of this sweater are shown below.

At this point, you have the numbers you need to calculate the number of square inches of fabric that you need to make for this sweater. For the front and back, multiply the length by the width on the schematic and then multiply that number by 2. Using the numbers from my example above:

20 * 28 = 560 560*2 = 1120 square inches for front and back.

The sleeve is a trapezoid shape. The formula for the area of a trapezoid is:

[(b1+b2) * h] / 2

Where b1 is the width at the bottom of the sleeve(8”) and b2 is the width at the top of the sleeve(15”) and h is the length of the sleeve(18”). Using the numbers from the sleeve schematic, the area for one sleeve is 207 square inches. Since you need two sleeves, you then need to multiply the area of the sleeve by two. (414 square inches)

Now, here’s a short cut – if you place your sleeves next to each other so that the tops of the sleeves are parallel – you have a parallelogram. To get the area of this parallelogram you simply multiple the width(15”+ 8” = 23”) by the length(18”). Try it – you’ll get the same number as above.

Add the square inches for the front and back to the square inches for the sleeves and you have the total number of square inches of fabric in the sweater. Now that you know the total number of square inches of fabric you need, you will need to use the yardage and weight information of the yarn you want to use to estimate how many skeins or balls of yarn your sweater requires. The yardage per weight of the yarn will be found on the yarn label – see image below:

You will use the yards per gram value in the estimate for total yardage. Now you need to knit a swatch. The swatch should be in the same stitch pattern that you plan to use for the body of your sweater. This swatch does not need to be the same size as your gauge swatch, but it should be wide enough and long enough to get an accurate weight, length and width measurement. After you knit this swatch, you will measure its weight using a scale that measures to the nearest tenth (0.1) of a gram. Next measure the length and width of the swatch and multiply these values together. This gives you the number of square inches in your swatch. Now divide the number of grams by the number of square inches.(Do not round). You now know what 1 square inch of your yarn weighs. This is the number you need to calculate how much yardage you need for your sweater.

Example: My swatch measures 3.5 inches by 4.5 inches, which gives me 15.75 square inches. The swatch weighs 9.6 g. Dividing 9.6 by 15.76 gives me 0.622 g/square inch.

Here’s the final set of calculations:

Take the total number of square inches of fabric and multiply it by the number of grams per square inch. This gives you the total weight in grams for your sweater.

Total Number of Square Inches * grams/inch² = Total grams of fabric

Total Grams/Square Inches = (1120 + 414) * 0.622 = 954.148 g

Now take the yards per gram value from the yarn label. (For example 218 yds/100grams). Divide the yds by the grams to get the number of yards in 1 gram of yarn. (For example: 218yards/100grams = 2.18 yards per gram.) Multiply the total number of grams of fabric by the number of yards per gram to get the total yardage for the sweater. Using the numbers from the examples above:

Yards per gram = 2.18 yds/g

Total Yards of Yarn = 954.148 * 2.18 = 2080 yds

To determine the number of skeins, balls or hanks of yarn you need: Divide the number of yards by the number of yards in the skein. Or divide the total number of grams by the number of grams of the skein. Remember that you will want one extra skein for swatching. (In my example, I would need 9.5 skeins, so I would want 11 skeins with one extra for swatching)

What to do if you don’t have the yarn label

To determine how many yards of yarn you have when you do not have the yarn label or any information, simply measure out 10 yards of your yarn and weigh it. Divide the weight by 10 and you have the weight for 1 yard of yarn. Now weigh the skeins/hanks of yarn and multiply by the weight of 1 yard. This will give you the number of yards for each skein/hank.

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Update on SFSUpdate on SFS

October 15, 2009| Lindy| 0 Comment| 8:00 am

SFS_HeelFlap2
I have finished the legs on my SFS regulation socks and knitted the heel flap.

Then I did the heel turn – which required some juggling. I slipped one sock heel onto a another circular needle while I knit the heel turn and then repeated the process for the second sock. This seemed easier than trying to knit the two heel turns with the same circular needle at the same time.

SFS_HeelTurn3

The real challenge was to pick up the gusset stitches and at one point I had 4 circular needles in use. But I was successful in picking up the gusset stitches on both sides of the heel.

Now on to knitting the gusset and switching back to larger needles about halfway through.

Summer Knitting: Dishcloths # 4 – 6Summer Knitting: Dishcloths # 4 – 6

August 12, 2010| Lindy| 3 Comments| 9:13 am

I am now half way through my Summer Knitting project of knitting a dozen dishcloths. Here are the three I have just finished:

Dishcloth #4 – Crocus Buds

Pattern from the Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton, color Banana. This was an interesting openwork pattern. The “crocus buds” are created by pulling a stitch over the next two stitches on the needle. It is a simple 6 stitch pattern over 4 rows with yarn overs creating the open patterning between the “crocus buds”.

Dishcloth #5 – Elfin Lace

Pattern from Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton, color Natural. Easy lace pattern, that knits up into a nice dishcloth. The Elfin Lace pattern is an eight stitch pattern done over 8 rows.

Dishcloth #6 – Trinity Stitch

Pattern from Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton, color Natural. Lovely textured pattern produced by using the “Trinity Stitch”. I loved knitting this one. The “Trinity Stitch” is a neat textured pattern.

Link to “Kitchen Bright Dishcloths” from Leisure Arts (2004).

Cast On MethodsCast On Methods

February 17, 2021| LindyBeir| 0 Comment| 11:48 am

This is the first post about Cast Ons. There have been several books written about different cast on methods as well as many chapters in general knitting references and YouTube videos. What I know now as a long time, more experienced knitter is that there a lots and lots of different ways to accomplish the task of putting the first stitches on your needles so that you can begin to knit. But when I first started knitting, I only knew one way to cast on. That’s because, as I believe is the case for most beginners, I was only taught one way to cast on. And I suspect that my knitting teacher taught me that cast on because it was the method that she knew.

While visiting my older sister, I learned to knit from a woman who sold yarn kits and gave knitting lessons in her apartment. So, my first knitting project was a slipper pattern kit that came with the yarn, a set of needles and an easy beginner level pattern. I think I had maybe two lessons from her and I was off to knit on my own. My teacher taught me the “Knitted Cast On” method. I used this method for a long time before discovering another cast on method – the “Backwards Loop (or E-wrap)” cast on.

The first time I encountered the notion that there were other ways to cast on was when I was knitting my very first sweater and I ran into an issue and needed some help with my project. Now, I lived in a very small town and there weren’t many people who knew how to knit. My mother located a neighbor who did and was willing to help me, so I went over to her house with my sweater. The neighbor did help me get my problem fixed – but what I remember most clearly about this session was what she said about my cast on: “Oh, you cast on wrong.”

My 11 year old self didn’t comment on that statement, but I was doing a slow burn because “I DID Cast on the right way.” I had used the knitted cast on that I knew. A lot of time passed between this incident and my learning that there are many ways to accomplish the same thing in knitting. And – I am still learning different ways to cast on!

So, in this series of posts about cast ons, I will discuss the cast ons that I currently know how to do and when and with what projects I use them. Since it was the first one I learned, I’m starting with the Knitted Cast On.

The knitted cast on is an easy cast on to learn as a beginner. Essentially, you create your first stitch on your needle by making a slip knot, placing it on the needle and start the cast on by knitting a stitch through the loop using your other needle. Once you have the stitch on the right hand needle, you slip it back onto the left hand needle and tighten it up a little, then knit into that stitch and repeat the process until you have the desired number of stitches.

Where I use this cast on:

When I want a fairly firm , yet somewhat stretchy edge: project like scarves, some shawls, blankets
Casting on for underarm stitches or thumb gussets in gloves or mittens

Here’s a YouTube video on this cast on: Knitting Help – Knitted Cast On

Next Post: e-Wrap (Backwards Loop) and Cable Cast On Methods