Lindy's Knits & Laces knitting,Knitting Techniques,Swatching,Yarn How to Knit a Helpful Swatch – Part 4 Swatching to Estimate Yardage Needed

How to Knit a Helpful Swatch – Part 4 Swatching to Estimate Yardage Needed

I have covered the basics of how to make a Gauge Swatch and calculate your stitch and row gauge in my previous three posts. Today’s topic will cover some basic math to help you estimate the yardage that you need using your yarn, your needles, and your gauge to make a sweater.

Let’s say you want to make a sweater using yarn from your stash and you need to know if you have enough to make it. To make this estimate, you need the measurements for the sweater you want to make. If you are using a pattern, the finished measurements should be stated within the pattern – ideally on a schematic. Some patterns may only state the desired measurements within the text of the pattern and you may have to read through to find them.  If you are making the sweater without using a pattern – you would use the measurements of the individual who will be wearing the sweater.

The image below shows a schematic for the back of a sweater of a drop sleeve sweater. The back is 28 inches long from the hem to the neck and it is 20 inches wide. Both the front and the back of this type of sweater are essentially rectangles. 

Schematic of Back/Front of Sweater

The schematic for the sleeves of this sweater are shown below.

Schematic of Sleeve

At this point, you have the numbers you need to calculate the number of square inches of fabric that you need to make for this sweater. For the front and back, multiply the length by the width on the schematic and then multiply that number by 2. Using the numbers from my example above:

20 * 28 = 560     560*2 = 1120  square inches for front and back.

The sleeve is a trapezoid shape. The formula for the area of a trapezoid is:

[(b1+b2) * h] / 2

Where b1 is the width at the bottom of the sleeve(8”) and b2 is the width at the top of the sleeve(15”) and h is the length of the sleeve(18”). Using the numbers from the sleeve schematic, the area for one sleeve is 207 square inches. Since you need two sleeves, you then need to multiply the area of the sleeve by two. (414 square inches)

Now, here’s a short cut – if you place your sleeves next to each other so that the tops of the sleeves are parallel – you have a parallelogram. To get the area of this parallelogram you simply multiple the width(15”+ 8” = 23”) by the length(18”). Try it – you’ll get the same number as above.

Add the square inches for the front and back to the square inches for the sleeves and you have the total number of square inches of fabric in the sweater. Now that you know the total number of square inches of fabric you need, you will need to use the yardage and weight information of the yarn you want to use to estimate how many skeins or balls of yarn your sweater requires. The yardage per weight of the yarn will be found on the yarn label – see image below:

You will use the yards per gram value in the estimate for total yardage. Now you need to knit a swatch. The swatch should be in the same stitch pattern that you plan to use for the body of your sweater. This swatch does not need to be the same size as your gauge swatch, but it should be wide enough and long enough to get an accurate weight, length and width measurement.  After you knit this swatch, you will measure its weight using a scale that measures to the nearest tenth (0.1) of a gram. Next measure the length and width of the swatch and multiply these values together. This gives you the number of square inches in your swatch. Now divide the number of grams by the number of square inches.(Do not round). You now know what 1 square inch of your yarn weighs. This is the number you need to calculate how much yardage you need for your sweater.

Example: My swatch measures 3.5 inches by 4.5 inches, which gives me 15.75 square inches. The swatch weighs 9.6 g. Dividing 9.6 by 15.76 gives me 0.622 g/square inch.

Here’s the final set of calculations:

Take the total number of square inches of fabric and multiply it by the number of grams per square inch. This gives you the total weight in grams for your sweater.

Total Number of Square Inches * grams/inch2  = Total grams of fabric

Total Grams/Square Inches = (1120 + 414) * 0.622 = 954.148 g

Now take the yards per gram value from the yarn label. (For example 218 yds/100grams). Divide the yds by the grams to get the number of yards in 1 gram of yarn.  (For example: 218yards/100grams = 2.18 yards per gram.)  Multiply the total number of grams of fabric by the number of yards per gram to get the total yardage for the sweater. Using the numbers from the examples above:

Yards per gram = 2.18 yds/g

Total Yards of Yarn = 954.148 * 2.18 = 2080 yds

To determine the number of skeins, balls or hanks of yarn you need: Divide the number of yards by the number of yards in the skein. Or divide the total number of grams by the number of grams of the skein.  Remember that you will want one extra skein for swatching. (In my example, I would need 9.5 skeins, so I would want 11 skeins with one extra for swatching)

What to do if you don’t have the yarn label

To determine how many yards of yarn you have when you do not have the yarn label or any information, simply measure out 10 yards of your yarn and weigh it. Divide the weight by 10 and you have the weight for 1 yard of yarn. Now weigh the skeins/hanks of yarn and multiply by the weight of 1 yard.  This will give you the number of yards for each skein/hank.


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Related Post

Part 1: Freeing Yourself from a Written Pattern or How to Use the Yarn of Your ChoicePart 1: Freeing Yourself from a Written Pattern or How to Use the Yarn of Your Choice

In my last post, I discussed the issues related to trying to substitute one yarn for another and suggested at the end of my post that if you want to use a yarn of a different weight & gauge than what the pattern calls for – you can design your own custom sweater using the pattern as a guide.
Today, I will focus on the first of two approaches for doing just that. WARNING – you must be prepared to take measurements, do a proper gauge swatch and get out your calculator. Yes, we will be doing some math…

Approach #1 – Use EZ’s Percentage System.

Elizabeth Zimmerman published her “unvented” percentage system for designing sweaters in the Knitting Workshop and gave us many examples of how to use it in her other books. EZ was always someone who dealt with knitting in a pragmatic fashion and basically cut through all the fluff and gave clear explanations of basic concepts. I encourage you to read all of her books – but if you want the complete explanation of her percentage system — Knitting Workshop is the source.

I am describing EZ’s Percentage System for two basic sweater designs – the yoke sweater and the Raglan sleeve sweater. Both are knitted in the round. You need to take some basic body measurements:

Width around the chest (Chest Measurement) [CM] The Chest Measurement is the “Key Measurement” (100%) and the starting point.
Body length to Underarm (Underarm Measurement)
Sleeve length to Underarm (Sleeve Length)
You must know your stitch gauge or Stitches per Inch [SPI]

The math follows:
CM X SPI = # stitches needed for the body of the sweater.

For a Yoke Sweater the basic percentages of the above are:
Body = 100%
Wrist = 20%
Upper Arm = 33%
Underarm = 8%
Circumference of Shoulders = 133%
Neck = 40%

For a Raglan-Sleeve Style Sweater the basic percentages are:
Body = 100%
Wrist = 20%
Upper Arm = 33%
Neck = 40%

To calculate – multiply the total number of body stitches by the percentage.

I think you get the idea. If you want to try using EZ’s percentage system, I recommend you either borrow EZ’s Knitting Workshop from your library or a friend or purchase it.

Here’s a link that will take you to Amazon.com: Knitting Workshop

I have also created an Excel Spreadsheet that will make the calculations for you. You can download it here: EPS_Calculator Spreadsheet.

Next post, I will outline another approach to sweater design.

October and Breast Cancer AwarenessOctober and Breast Cancer Awareness

October is Breast Cancer Awareness month. I am a ten year breast cancer survivor and at this time of year I like to remind my friends and followers about the importance of having an annual mammogram. I was well overdue for my mammogram when my breast cancer was detected. Fortunately, it was in the early stage and I received good treatment and am now cancer free. But I do not miss my annual mammogram.

So, my friends — Have you had your annual mammogram this year? If not, please get it scheduled and get it done. It’s important to take care of your health and this is one thing that you must do for yourself every year. One in eight women over the age of 40 will develop some form of breast cancer.

For those who are either dealing with breast cancer treatment or have a loved one who is — I have designed a Turban Style Chemo Hat — one knitted using worsted weight yarn and one knitted in sport weight yarn. Both are available for free.