Lindy's Knits & Laces Dishcloths,knitting,Knitting Projects,Stitch Patterns Summer (…into Fall) Knitting: Dishcloths #7– #9

Summer (…into Fall) Knitting: Dishcloths #7– #9

Well, my Summer knitting project of a dozen dishcloths has now drifted into Fall. I completed Dishcloth #7 and #8 before Summer ended and then got busy with other projects and just left my needles and yarn waiting for me to come back and knit some more. So, I started Dishcloth # 9 on Sunday and finished it up today. Hopefully, I will finish the last three dishcloths before the end of the Fall season. Here are the completed projects:

Dishcloth #7 — Valentine Hearts
Dishcloth #7 - Valentine Hearts
Pattern from Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Peaches & Cream Cotton, color Teal. This is a reverse stockinette stitch pattern on a stockinette stitch background that resembles a cut-out of hearts that I made when I was a child. It’s an easy knit pattern over 20 rows.

Dishcloth #8 — Zigzag Eyelet
Zigzag Eyelet Dishcloth
Pattern from Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton, color Natural. Lovely little lace pattern done over a multiple of 11 stitches plus 2 and 12 rows.

Dishcloth #9 — Climbing Lattice
Dishcloth in Climbing Lattice pattern
Pattern from Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Sugar’n Cream, color Cool Breeze Ombre. This is an interesting lace pattern that combines left twists with a four stitch eyelet pattern. I was getting tired of solid color yarns, so I went with this ombre — I really like the way it knitted up.

Links to Dishcloths #1 through #6:
Dishcloths #1 — #3
Dishcloths #4 — #6

Link to “Kitchen Bright Dishcloths” from Leisure Arts (2004).

Related Post

Part 1: Freeing Yourself from a Written Pattern or How to Use the Yarn of Your ChoicePart 1: Freeing Yourself from a Written Pattern or How to Use the Yarn of Your Choice

In my last post, I discussed the issues related to trying to substitute one yarn for another and suggested at the end of my post that if you want to use a yarn of a different weight & gauge than what the pattern calls for – you can design your own custom sweater using the pattern as a guide.
Today, I will focus on the first of two approaches for doing just that. WARNING – you must be prepared to take measurements, do a proper gauge swatch and get out your calculator. Yes, we will be doing some math…

Approach #1 – Use EZ’s Percentage System.

Elizabeth Zimmerman published her “unvented” percentage system for designing sweaters in the Knitting Workshop and gave us many examples of how to use it in her other books. EZ was always someone who dealt with knitting in a pragmatic fashion and basically cut through all the fluff and gave clear explanations of basic concepts. I encourage you to read all of her books – but if you want the complete explanation of her percentage system — Knitting Workshop is the source.

I am describing EZ’s Percentage System for two basic sweater designs – the yoke sweater and the Raglan sleeve sweater. Both are knitted in the round. You need to take some basic body measurements:

Width around the chest (Chest Measurement) [CM] The Chest Measurement is the “Key Measurement” (100%) and the starting point.
Body length to Underarm (Underarm Measurement)
Sleeve length to Underarm (Sleeve Length)
You must know your stitch gauge or Stitches per Inch [SPI]

The math follows:
CM X SPI = # stitches needed for the body of the sweater.

For a Yoke Sweater the basic percentages of the above are:
Body = 100%
Wrist = 20%
Upper Arm = 33%
Underarm = 8%
Circumference of Shoulders = 133%
Neck = 40%

For a Raglan-Sleeve Style Sweater the basic percentages are:
Body = 100%
Wrist = 20%
Upper Arm = 33%
Neck = 40%

To calculate – multiply the total number of body stitches by the percentage.

I think you get the idea. If you want to try using EZ’s percentage system, I recommend you either borrow EZ’s Knitting Workshop from your library or a friend or purchase it.

Here’s a link that will take you to Amazon.com: Knitting Workshop

I have also created an Excel Spreadsheet that will make the calculations for you. You can download it here: EPS_Calculator Spreadsheet.

Next post, I will outline another approach to sweater design.

FO: Socks for DSFO: Socks for DS


I finished the socks I started for my DS just before Christmas. These were a late started Christmas present — and I wrapped them up still on the needles to give them to him for Christmas. Then, he had to give them back to me to finish. [Sometimes, a knitter has to do what a knitter has to do… 🙂 ].

These socks were knit using Knit Picks Stroll yarn in the “Carbon Twist” colorway. I like the result. After washing, this yarn is soft and has a tweedy appearance. Best of all, when I gave them to DS — he put them on his feet and wore them! They fit well. He wanted socks that would wear longer — i.e. “not wear out at the heels or toes”. So, I knit the heels and the toes with size US 0 (2.00 mm) needles to make them denser. We’ll see how well they wear — this is the way the Socks for Soldiers socks are knitted, so I am hoping for a good result.

Team Knitting: Socks for SoldiersTeam Knitting: Socks for Soldiers

Socks for Soldiers has a group of members who own working antique circular sock machines (CSM). These are amazing little machines that were designed to knit socks during the WWII era. I did a little searching on the web and found out that these machines often sell for between $1500 and $2500 refurbished and there are actually a few companies that refurbish these machine and keep them working. I’m including a link here if you are interested in taking a look. They actually look rather daunting.

Now, the knitters with the CSMs spend their time and yarn making those 12 inch long ribbed legs. Then they put the leg on a lifeline and send it off to a team member who knits the heel, foot and toe by hand. This speeds up the process for producing the SFS regulation socks significantly. I have recently teamed up with a CSM knitter and she just sent my first pair of CSM legs. Here’s a picture:
SFS_CSMLegs1

These legs are amazing! My team mate, Peggy, tells me that it takes her about 5 minutes to knit 1 leg on her CSM. However, the CSM itself takes longer to set up and encourage to actually knit. When we first corresponded, she also asked me if I was a right-handed or left-handed knitter. (I’m right-handed.) Seems you have to run the lifeline differently for left-handed vs. right-handed knitters. So, here are the CSM legs, close-up of the lifeline, and ready for me to put onto my needles and begin the heels. I plan to start them this evening, so hopefully I will get another pair of SFS OD regulation socks done well before Christmas.